Despite its reputation for spring breakers (and drug dealers) gone wild, Cancun is my favorite place in the world to convalesce.
On my first trip, when I came down with a paralyzing achy-head, achy-throat, achy-bones kind of flu virus, I did convalesce—and still managed to enjoy one of the most relaxing vacations ever. (Thanks in part to the hotel’s on-call doctor, who, for $70 USD, arrived in 20 minutes bearing antibiotics. I’d love that kind of care in the United States.)
Whether you’re sick or not, you’ll follow a similar schedule in this Mexican paradise. You’ll wake up with the sunrise and ocean breezes—and if you’re lucky to have an oceanfront room, you should sleep with the balcony door cracked. You’ll have breakfast, perhaps an omelet or a delicious yogurt without the saccharine taste of corn syrup, and head to the beach for a spicy Vampiro, a delicious brunch cocktail of sangrita (“little blood”), tequila, lime, and salt. After a swim and nap, and maybe another nap before you shower, it’s time for dinner at a local restaurant followed by a nightcap (or several) of mezcal, which will dull any aches induced by a virus or simply too much sun. Then, you’ll fall asleep to the sound of the waves so you can do it all again.
And you then might consider giving up your busy busy travel schedule and busy busy life and selling your possessions and buying a little house on Isla Mujeres, off the coast of Cancun, and opening a cocktail bar for the tourists if you get bored.
My well-traveled friends are skeptical when I tell them how much The Diplomat and I love this Mexican resort city, which is best known for cheap tequila shots at Señor Frog’s and boogie all-inclusive resorts. If either of these options sounds like a good time, well, you don’t need this guide. I won’t judge you. I did spring break in Jamaica, too. But if you want a vacation that is both relaxing yet enriching, easy yet exotic, I encourage you to take a look at my version of Cancun.
Here’s a Cancun travel guide for the smart, sophisticated traveler who wants to get away from the conference calls and closed-toe shoes every now and then.
Sleep
The Diplomat and I have always stayed at the InterContinental Presidente Cancun (Blvd. Kukulcan, KM 7.5, Zona Hotelera), an oasis with literally one of the best beaches on the strip, and I don’t plan to deviate. Opening in 1976, the Presidente was one of the first hotels in Cancun and maintains the authentic, retro architecture and décor with clean, comfortable, and wholly modern guest rooms at unbeatable rates. The halls, and importantly, the pool deck are peaceful, and your fellow guests are well behaved and seemingly well traveled. The hotel is perfectly situated for exploring the Hotel Zone as well as the area sights, with a pharmacy and grocery store across the street and the ferry dock a pleasant 15-minute walk away.
I love the Presidente and can’t wait to return, but I’m curious about the Le Blanc Spa Resort (Blvd. Kukulcan, KM 10, Zona Hotelera), a luxury, boutique-style resort a short distance away. It’s all-inclusive, but trustworthy guides like Condé Nast Traveler rave about the high caliber of the atmosphere, food, and spa at this recent addition to the Hotel Zone. I may not stay there, but I definitely plan to get a massage on my next trip.
Dine
The words “all-you-can-eat-and-drink” do not entice me. And while it would be easy to just eat the fish tacos at the hotel every day–they are quite good–I recommend you venture out to enjoy the abundance of fresh seafood, the colorful fruits and vegetables, and the passion for spice.
After a day in the sun, I love to get dolled up for a romantic dinner. The Diplomat and I always enjoy La Habichuela Centro (Margaritas #25, Parque las Palapas, Centro), which means “The String Bean,” one of the first restaurants to open in the burgeoning resort town in the 1970s. Request a table in the beautiful garden, filled with foliage and tea lights and Mayan sculptures, and enjoy Caribbean lobster and grouper along with the signature “crema de habichuela” soup. Finish your meal with a strong Mayan coffee with brandy, cream, and cinnamon.
Another favorite spot is La Dolce Vita (Av. Coba, No. 87, Centro), which serves classic Italian recipes made with Mexico’s superb ingredients. If you dine late like the locals, you’ll get a complimentary after-dinner drink, too. Savio’s Bistro (Blvd. Kukulcan, KM 15, Zona Hotelera) is the restaurant’s more casual little sister in the Hotel Zone and perfect for pizza and wine, but keep in mind that the kitchen typically closes just as the original location downtown starts hopping.
To avoid tourists entirely, take a taxi to Plaza Peninsula (Av. Bonampak 9), an outdoor mall where you’ll find locals grabbing coffee, working out, and dining in several upscale establishments. (On our first visit, we accidentally crashed the open-bar opening party at Gaucho House, an Argentinean steakhouse with a huge roof deck.) After a glass of wine or reposado at the outdoor bar at Cenacolo, try the modern Mexican fare at Axiote, which has friendly service and an addictive deep-fried parsley appetizer. The maitre d’ can call a reputable taxi to take you home.
I should discuss food safety. You might hear you should avoid raw seafood, raw fruits and vegetables, ice cubes, street vendors, etc. while traveling, especially in Mexico. The Diplomat and I have never followed these guidelines. Sure, we’ve gotten a few stomach bugs while traveling the world, but we also contracted norovirus at a renowned five-star resort in the United States. I’m willing to take the risk in order to enjoy the luscious produce that explodes with flavor, and especially street food after a few cocktails, and I’m way too lazy to brush my teeth with bottled water at an upscale resort. But, you should do whatever makes you most comfortable.
Drink
If you’re anything like me, a day at the beach followed by a margarita will have you sound asleep by midnight. However, you’ll want to save your energy for at least a few nights out on the town.
As soon as you land, you’ll see advertisements everywhere for Coco Bongo (Blvd. Kukulcan, KM 9.5, Zona Hotelera), which is part dance club, part Vegas-style show, and full party. I know, it looks insane, but you should go. If you hate crowds, get the Gold Member tickets, which include reserved seating above the masses and open-bar table service, but still arrive early to get a seat at the front of the action. You’ll enjoy a fantastic live show, featuring everything from the Beatles to Britney Spears to Broadway, with people from truly all walks of life—and it’s probably the closet thing to Steve Rubell’s vision for Studio 54 for the masses today.
For a calmer night out, head to the Playboy Club (Blvd. Kukulcan, KM 3.5, Zona Hotelera), which embodies Hugh Hefner’s original vision for the brand with elegant décor and bunnies wearing much more clothing than the guests at those all-inclusive resorts. Forget everything you saw on E!’s “The Girls Next Door,” order a cocktail, and belly up to the roulette table, where you might actually win $40 after a few hours. I hate the word “classy,” but it does accurately describe this oasis among the Hotel Zone’s nightlife offerings.
See
Another reason I love Cancun is that if you need a break from all the relaxation, you’re in the middle of a vibrant city, and not far from centuries of history and culture.
If you’re staying at the Presidente, you might see an American gentleman named Paul wandering the beach offering a sail around the beautiful bay. I suggest you take him up on his offer, and bring a six-pack and perhaps some snacks for the journey, which you can fully customize. (Unfortunately, I sailed at the height of my flu and couldn’t get off that boat soon enough, but I’d certainly go again!)
But I’m more of a spa girl than a boat girl, and while a spa is the only thing the Presidente lacks, there are plenty in Cancun. I’ve had several excellent experiences at spas at Starwood Hotels around the world, so I booked an appointment at the Westin Resort’s Heavenly Spa, approximately 15 minutes by taxi from the Presidente. The fairly new facility was bright and clean, with a huge locker room and lounge, friendly staff, and reasonable prices. The massage, which utilized hot stones as well as reiki healing techniques, was good, though I’m still eager to try the offerings at the Le Blanc.
Explore
I get it—the lounge chair is comfortable, the waiter knows you like your Vampiros spicy, and you might want to rent a jet ski. But Isla Mujeres is worth getting up and at ‘em for a day, or more—and in fact, you may never want to leave. I’ve got an entire post on the exquisite island in the works, but if you only do one real thing on your trip, make it a visit to the Eastern-most point of Mexico, where you can rent a golf cart and spend a day exploring the majestic scenery.
Next Trip
I still haven’t visited Chichen Itza, the World Heritage Site that’s a little over two hours from the Hotel Zone. It requires an alarm clock and planning ahead, but it’s something that should be seen. I also want to explore the nightlife in Centro and Parque las Palapas, especially the jazz clubs. On our next trip, The Diplomat and I hope to spend a night in the Hotel Zone before heading to Isla Mujeres to stay in slightly more rustic lodgings, practice sunrise yoga on the sand, and really disappear for a few days.
Have a question about Cancun or a new place I should try on my next visit? Leave it in the comments! And stay tuned for a deeper look at Isla Mujeres as well as some Mexico-inspired fashion!
Unless otherwise noted, I did not receive any compensation for my travel experiences. For more information, click here.