When you land in Hong Kong for the first time, you’ll likely feel utterly disoriented. It’s not a long ride from the airport, through imposing mountains that exemplify southern China’s landscape, over Victoria Harbor, a shipping hub where the factories of the East meet the consumers of the West, finally, to the iconic, twinkling, unending skyline of the city center. But, it’s a new ride. You’ve seen photos of Hong Kong, but nothing can compare to seeing China’s Special Administrative Region with your own eyes—especially if you’ve flown literally over the top of the Earth to get there. In your head, time and space are jumbled—and in Hong Kong, the exotic scents and sounds of Asia are jumbled with a distinctly British ambiance from its colonial days as well as a sleek and at times futuristic patina.

The view from the Peak Trail, Victoria Peak, Hong Kong (Credit: Samantha Sault)

On my first trip to Hong Kong, in January 2012, “disoriented” doesn’t even begin to describe how The Diplomat and I felt when we arrived after dark following a long journey through Beijing. We found our boutique hotel in Causeway Bay—eventually—and hunger and bewilderment drew us to the unfamiliar streets even though the clock approached midnight. In Hong Kong, you’ll find that many restaurants and bars are hidden away in skyscrapers, which is frustrating when you first arrive and desperately need a nightcap to deal with your jet lag. We found a sticky pub in an office building in Times Square, where the “fish filet” was more like McDonald’s than the British-style fish and chips we craved, but today find humor in our first meal in what is now one of our favorite culinary cities.

The futuristic patina of Hong Kong, evident in the Lippo Centre, a.k.a. “The Koala Tree” (Credit: Samantha Sault)

After eight days, and Hong Kong Fashion Week and meetings and a few more trips since then, I’ve learned my way around Hong Kong and know that it is not disorienting, but delightfully mysterious. Around every bustling corner, up and down the Mid-Levels escalators, into the subway stations and back and forth across the Harbor, there’s always something wonderful to discover.

Smiling Shau Kei Wan Plaza while waiting for a meeting (Credit: Samantha Sault)

If you don’t have much time—or if you want to be sure to avoid the aforementioned fish filets—I’ve compiled an authentic, accessible Hong Kong travel guide for the sophisticated and stylish traveler.

Sleep

I’ve always stayed at the J Plus Hotel (1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay), the first hotel in Asia designed by Philippe Starck. The rates are more than reasonable, but it’s definitely not “budget.” With surprisingly spacious rooms utilizing the principles of feng shui, along with quietly attentive service and amenities like a fitness room, washing machines, and complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea, and evening wine in the lobby, you’ll feel like you’re staying at your hip, artsy, extremely clean friend’s apartment in the heart of the city—and definitely getting a deal. For two, upgrade to a suite, which provides plenty of space to catch up on work or relax with takeout and a movie. If money were no object, I might try the Mandarin Oriental (5 Connaught Road, Central). I can’t vouch for the rooms, but I can say the view at M Bar on the 25^th floor is magical. Wherever you stay, make sure it’s on Hong Kong Island—while Kowloon has its merits, I don’t think you’d enjoy Hong Kong quite as much if you spend too much time among Kowloon’s sterile luxury shops and sleazy night markets.

The J Plus Suite, a lesson in feng shui (Credit: The Diplomat)

Dine

Hong Kong is truly a global city, especially evident when you examine your dining options. While you’ll definitely want to eat regional food—and I’d encourage you to be as adventurous and try as much street food as your stomach can handle—Hong Kong boasts exceptional French, Spanish, Italian, British, Lebanese, and even New York City pizza, too.

I like to try new places, especially around the Mid-Levels, but I always return to a few favorite spots. I never miss lunch at Wang Fu (65 Wellington Street, Central), which is worth any wait for the heavenly Beijing-style dumplings. For a casual dinner, standouts are Tapeo (19 Hollywood Road, Central) for excellent tapas and rioja, and Pastis (65 Wyndham Street, Central), where French expats gather for champagne and a better Croque Monsieur than any I had in Paris.

While you’ll usually find The Diplomat and me perched on bar stools at meal times, we do enjoy a formal dinner now and then, especially for a special occasion like New Year’s Eve. We love Kowloon Tang (Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui), part of Sir David Tang’s empire, for a Cantonese feast washed down with a cocktail by one of the restaurant’s expert mixologists. The food is always fresh and comforting, and we’re eager to try the Peking duck if we can ever get some of our family members to travel with us and share it.

I like dim sum, but I need bacon and eggs in the morning. As I mentioned, The Peak Lookout (121 Peak Road, The Peak) looks like a tourist trap, but the food is good and the views are even better. After a late night, I drag myself to Brunch Club & Supper Club (13 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay) for Eggs Benedict and a fresh-squeezed lemonade, or Life Organic Restaurant & Bar (10 Shelley Street, Soho) if I really need to detox.

The Croque Madame at Life Organic, with grilled (vegetarian) “ham” and “cheese” with organic eggs on whole wheat toast. It was, indeed, delicious. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Drink

If you appreciate cocktails, you must visit Bar Buonasera (7/F Mody House, 30 Mody Road, Kowloon), an outpost of a bar of the same name in Osaka, Japan. The proprietor and chief bartender, Hideo Morikowa, who greets you with a hot towel and bar bite, mixes masterful beverages from the classic cocktail canon—no molecular cocktails with bacon smoke here—and his bar backs carve ice by hand for a curated selection of whiskeys. I usually order an El Diablo—tequila, crème de cassis, lime juice, and ginger ale—but The Diplomat says Morikowa makes the best martini in the entire world. Whatever you do, don’t order a vodka and soda—though I’m sure it would be superb.

The Best Martini in the World, at Bar Buonasera (Credit: The Diplomat)

When I don’t feel like taking the subway to Kowloon, I head to The Pawn (62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai), a historic building that housed a pawn shop during the colonial era and is now a cozy British pub serving a selection of beers, punches, and delicious fish and chips. For a nightcap, go to Lily (LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central), a candlelit space where bankers enjoy speakeasy-style cocktails until the wee hours.

See

I hate to look like a tourist—in fact, I pride myself in often getting asked for directions–but a bus tour is a good way to get your bearings and figure out what you want to see up close. Hong Kong’s Big Bus Tour is no exception. The day tour provides a fascinating overview of Hong Kong’s history along with hop-on-hop-off access to must-see sights like the Man Mo Temple (126 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan) and the Peak Tram (33 Garden Road, Central) if you don’t have time for a morning hike around the Peak Trail. But, you definitely don’t want to miss the night bus tour, which picks up at the Star Ferry Pier in Central, for a bird’s eye view of the glittering city after dark, including the Symphony of Lights in Victoria Harbor. Get off in Tsim Sha Tsui for bar bites and drinks at Hullett House (1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road), which served as the home of the Marine Police for over 100 years.

Man Mo Temple (Credit: Samantha Sault)

The view of the night market in Kowloon, from the top of the bus (Credit: Samantha Sault)

To gain better understanding of Hong Kong’s history—and that Chinese Communist Party propaganda is alive and well in the Special Administrative Region—the Hong Kong Museum of History (100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui East) is worth a visit if you have a few hours to kill. And to gain a better understanding of daily life in Hong Kong today, check out the scene at the Hong Kong Jockey Club’s Happy Valley Racecourse on Wednesday evenings.

Happy Valley Racecourse (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Shop

How much do I love to shop in Hong Kong? On more than one trip I’ve had to purchase a cheap duffle bag to check my dirty clothes home. (The new purchases, of course, get carried on the plane.)

Luckily, The Diplomat likes to shop, too.

From designer clothes and shoes, to art and housewares featuring Chairman Mao, to stunning rugs from the Middle East and eyeglasses, to fascinating varieties of candy and ice cream bars and instant ramen at the 7-Eleven around the corner from the hotel, Hong Kong has it all. You’ll hear about the markets, but the only thing you should buy at one is the extra piece of luggage. Fakes are never in fashion, and whatever your budget, there are deals to be found on much more unique finds.

If you’ve been thinking about a major luxury purchase, Hong Kong is the place to buy it since you’ll get it tax free on the spot. Whether you’re looking for Chanel or Zara, you can find it at Pacific Place (88 Queensway, Admiralty), a large yet surprisingly peaceful mall that provides welcome respite in the hotter months. I love to browse Harvey Nichols to see the clothes I admired on London’s catwalks, and I.T. to discover cutting-edge Asian designers. For gentlemen, The Diplomat recommends the exquisite shirts from PYE, led by Dee Poon, daughter of the owner of Harvey Nichols. If you need a shirt for a special occasion, or to win the big client, get fitted at the store and choose your fabric, buttons, and collar style, and get a set of pocket squares to match.

I also love to explore the boutiques around Central and Soho, which change every time I go. On my last trip, I discovered TIKKA (18 Gough Street, Central), selling up-and-coming brands from Asia–and I hope it doesn’t disappear like the vintage shop I found the previous year. In this neighborhood, you’ll also find housewares and antiques at all price points, ranging from cheeky chopsticks, pillow cases, and underwear at Goods of Desire (48 Hollywood Road, Central), to one-of-a-kind Chinese antiques and mod furniture at other shops along Hollywood Road. Look for the open-air stall at the corner of Hollywood Road and Graham Street for contraband Mao kitsch, including art prints and other decorative pieces, at affordable prices.

The second floor of Goods of Desire has mod furniture that will make you want to get your own shipping container. The underwear can be found on the first floor. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

No Hong Kong shopping spree is complete without stopping by Shanghai Tang (1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui). I’ve purchased some very special items here, including a jade-encrusted minaudière as well as embroidered cocktail napkins that we only use when drinking champagne. Just try to resist the sales associates as they show you the pretty leather passport cases, and the fine china decorated with pop art empresses, and the heavenly perfumes and scented candles…I mean, Shanghai Tang even makes a Mandarin collar look chic. I warned you.

Explore

Before my first trip to Hong Kong, I was told I’d only need a few days there. I’m glad I didn’t listen. I could never, ever get bored on the island, where there’s something new to discover around every corner, whether it’s an antique store or a dumpling shop or a political rally.

On New Year’s Day in 2013, protesters called for a democratic election and separation from China’s Communist Party. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

I do recommend that you spend a day exploring the Tian Tan Buddha (or, the Big Buddha) and the Po Lin Monastery (Ngong Ping, Lantau Island). Hop on the subway to Tung Chung, where you can take the Ngong Ping cable car high above the mountains and hiking trails of Lantau Island to the largest outdoor Buddha in the world. Watch for the massive Buddha rising out of the mist atop a mountain–it’s an emotional, once-in-a-lifetime experience. You can spend an entire day exploring the village and the monastery grounds–and skip the fast food restaurants when you get off the cable car, because you’ll get a ticket for a tasty lunch with the monks included with your admission fee.  It might make you become a Buddhist.

Big Buddha from the Ngong Ping Cable Car (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Next Trip

I keep hearing about Yardbird, the hot no-reservations yakitori restaurant in Sheung Wan, so that’s definitely on my list, along with Duddell’s, a trendy restaurant slash tea house slash arts space in Central. I also had the opportunity to explore the chill beach town Stanley, home of the famous Stanley Market, for a few hours on my last trip, but I’m eager to return and spend some time in the sand away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Stanley is a chill beach town, a lovely change of scenery for a day. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Have a question about Hong Kong travel or a new place I should try on my next visit? Leave it in the comments! And stay tuned for a look at some of my favorite Hong Kong-based designers!

NEXT MONTH: I’m heading back to London for a long weekend to celebrate my birthday, so watch for the SOS Travel Guide for London in May, along with a firsthand look at my favorite fashion from London’s spring collections, which I saw last September. Cheerio!

Unless otherwise noted, I did not receive any compensation for my travel experiences. For more information, click here.